Different material for less or more heat transfer? GP told Max to try a different "test cycle on braking" so they are looking at either getting rears upto temperature or not overheat.
Different material for less or more heat transfer? GP told Max to try a different "test cycle on braking" so they are looking at either getting rears upto temperature or not overheat.
Its already here in the present
Looks SLS powder printed to me.Farnborough wrote: ↑04 Apr 2025, 09:07Its already here in the presentadditive manufacturing it's currently called
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That component although not strictly structural, is heat sensitive and needs construction to mitigate that condition.
It could be the opposite, manufactured in light plastic by 3d print, mould made with that inside by initially spray surfacing, to then cast in something like magnesium alloy by pouring into the mould in displacement of the original structural plastic by melting.
OR metal fused "powder" in matrix construction.
I agree with the person who commented. You sound like a typical armchair aero expert. Max has stated the issues they have, car switching from under to oversteer, depending on track tep, tyre, asphalt, etc. are difficult to solve.ispano6 wrote: ↑04 Apr 2025, 17:30Good that they addressed the engine cover. Now they have to bring forward the mid-chassis updates and slim down the bulbous nose over the next couple of weeks and make the leading floor area more effective and get more stable downforce there. Then they should be able to trim down the rear wing main plane and static flap angle. The front wing endplates could also be flattened a bit but that could reduce its desired pointiness up front. It looks like the floor is where the focus should be but that takes time.
Edit:
For the one who called this "Complete Nonsense and down-rated", care to explain your logic?
Mine is from an assessment of comparison between the RB21 and VCARB02, which the data shows is a more stable platform.
Yes, agree with this.Henk_v wrote: ↑04 Apr 2025, 15:41Metal printig is ubiquitous allready. And for sure in F1. I bet most if not all of the metal inserts you see in the carbon work is 3D printed.
As for judging from a photo, it is kind of hard to distinguish 3D printed, milled or a cast from a 3D printed plug. Even when holding a part, I've been fooled a few times. Sometimes it is really hard to tell if it is milled and blasted or 3D printed.
3D printing metal is really, really expensive if you need it in "F1 grade". For a cake tin I'd expect it to be speed-milled on a combined mill/lathe machine. It is both faster and cheaper at this scale. It can also be quite a bit lighter as there is more control over the temper af the metal. A printed part is in essence always made from solidified molten metal. With heat treatment this can be improved, but I'd expect a cake-tin to warp too much in heat treatment to obtain the right tolrances.
On the surface I cannot fathom how this could make a difference. This really is a sport of the tiniest of details...organic wrote: ↑05 Apr 2025, 14:32Good view of the engine cover change for Japan by Nicolas carpentiers
https://i.imgur.com/m83X3s4.jpeg
I've been in charge if several milling/turning workshops and there are many, many ways to mill such a tin very quickly with a small wall tickets in high quality.Farnborough wrote: ↑05 Apr 2025, 14:39Yes, agree with this.Henk_v wrote: ↑04 Apr 2025, 15:41Metal printig is ubiquitous allready. And for sure in F1. I bet most if not all of the metal inserts you see in the carbon work is 3D printed.
As for judging from a photo, it is kind of hard to distinguish 3D printed, milled or a cast from a 3D printed plug. Even when holding a part, I've been fooled a few times. Sometimes it is really hard to tell if it is milled and blasted or 3D printed.
3D printing metal is really, really expensive if you need it in "F1 grade". For a cake tin I'd expect it to be speed-milled on a combined mill/lathe machine. It is both faster and cheaper at this scale. It can also be quite a bit lighter as there is more control over the temper af the metal. A printed part is in essence always made from solidified molten metal. With heat treatment this can be improved, but I'd expect a cake-tin to warp too much in heat treatment to obtain the right tolrances.
Milling I'm not so sure as with that thin cross sectional "wall" its difficult to cut substantially into form without support as the structure starts "ringing" like a bell, ordinarily that is. Tool chatter being another risk as the form moves relative to spindle etc. Quite possible, but still time consuming.
As you note, to pick up, feel and closely examine would be more definitive.
Have you seen the "array" of printing machines, different "print" method etc the teams run in factory ? They can run many (effectively multi thread) stations simultaneously to cram time as needed.Henk_v wrote: ↑05 Apr 2025, 18:53I've been in charge if several milling/turning workshops and there are many, many ways to mill such a tin very quickly with a small wall tickets in high quality.Farnborough wrote: ↑05 Apr 2025, 14:39Yes, agree with this.Henk_v wrote: ↑04 Apr 2025, 15:41Metal printig is ubiquitous allready. And for sure in F1. I bet most if not all of the metal inserts you see in the carbon work is 3D printed.
As for judging from a photo, it is kind of hard to distinguish 3D printed, milled or a cast from a 3D printed plug. Even when holding a part, I've been fooled a few times. Sometimes it is really hard to tell if it is milled and blasted or 3D printed.
3D printing metal is really, really expensive if you need it in "F1 grade". For a cake tin I'd expect it to be speed-milled on a combined mill/lathe machine. It is both faster and cheaper at this scale. It can also be quite a bit lighter as there is more control over the temper af the metal. A printed part is in essence always made from solidified molten metal. With heat treatment this can be improved, but I'd expect a cake-tin to warp too much in heat treatment to obtain the right tolrances.
Milling I'm not so sure as with that thin cross sectional "wall" its difficult to cut substantially into form without support as the structure starts "ringing" like a bell, ordinarily that is. Tool chatter being another risk as the form moves relative to spindle etc. Quite possible, but still time consuming.
As you note, to pick up, feel and closely examine would be more definitive.
3D printing is very forgiving for geometry and does not require setting op/programming, but it is really slow. The printing takes much more time than Milling and after that. You need to wait quite some time for the print bed to cool. Each part has it's own best way to produce.