Making a Drive/Time-Lapse video with motion blur

[Andres125sx]

Sorry Phil but, are you really explaining how a camera works to someone who work with cameras for a living?

Sorry, but reading your rant about ND filters ("motion blur paranoia" as you put it) did come across as very basic understanding on your part.

Thanks god I clearly stated it was just my personal opinion

Personally I don´t like motion blur

[...]

But anything related to images is subjective, so you´ll have to make your own decision...

..and also did mention ND filters have several purposes, not only motion blur as you were assuming....

No, ND filters are used even with 15kg Cinema cameras, they´re used for several purposes, from producing some blur even when the light conditions are excelent, to simply keep your aperture at the optimum for your lens

No need to be in defensive mode Phil

As for the sunglasses - sadly this won't work, as a sunglasses will not cut back the light nearly enough by the amount that I'll be needing it and I want to avoid aberrations that I can't correct later on.

That will depend on the sunglasses, as there are different.... darkness? (sorry don´t know what´s the correct word) the same way there are different ND filters. Looks like you´re assuming ND filter are very dark, but that´s not true, there are different grades, so you can find sunglasses darker to ND filters, or viceversa. Also, if it´s not dark enough, you can always use several layers.

But even if they´re not dark enough, that will always be better to nothing. An ND filter will be better obviously, that was just an idea as you said you can´t find ND filters for your camera. ND filters are better to sunglesses, but sunglasses are better to nothing

And I specifically said sunglasses as they are optic glasses, so no aberrations at all, at least on homologated sunglasses

[Cold Fussion]

I think it boils down to not using the right tool for the job if you're looking to get your sequence as exact as you want. If you really want want that 180 degree shutter (and even then most consumer stills cameras don't have a 1/48th shutter speed, usually only 1/50th) you're going to need a stills camera with a good auto-iso algorithm, or apply some sort of lens blur effect in post to the gopro footage. Some cameras like the Sony rx100 have a built in variable ND filter, though i'm unsure if the camera has an auto-nd mode or if it's only a user adjust. If it's a one off project you could rent one fairly cheaply and tether it to a laptop (though external power for the camera might be an issue).

[Phil]

I think it boils down to not using the right tool for the job if you're looking to get your sequence as exact as you want. If you really want want that 180 degree shutter (and even then most consumer stills cameras don't have a 1/48th shutter speed, usually only 1/50th) you're going to need a stills camera with a good auto-iso algorithm, or apply some sort of lens blur effect in post to the gopro footage. Some cameras like the Sony rx100 have a built in variable ND filter, though i'm unsure if the camera has an auto-nd mode or if it's only a user adjust. If it's a one off project you could rent one fairly cheaply and tether it to a laptop (though external power for the camera might be an issue).

I guess you are right. Admittedly, the more I see the increased complexity of what I set out to achieve, the more I'm just inclined to do it "right" and use my DSLR for the job. That won't happen though. For one, I wouldn't want to abuse my DSLR to that many thousands of exposures. Second, I'm not even sure the trip will be worthwhile of that kind of effort. I could well end up with 97% of boring endless flat scenery and the remaining 3% interesting things will just zap by in less than 10 seconds upon viewing.

The GoPro is cheap, simple and easy. I have one, it's small so I can effectively pack it for free. I also don't have to worry about power (I can use the cigarette unit for power), not about breaking it, having it stolen. And because it's small and light, it will stay in a very secure and locked position for the entire duration. It's not perfect and I guess I am conceding that the results I will get from it will (probably) be a far cry of what I could achieve when I'd go the extra mile by using my high end equipment.

But just because I'm going to use a 7 year old cheap action-shooter, doesn't mean I can try to get the best results possible - which would be a very close approximation of an 180 shutter angle.

Since it's a timelapse, I think I should get away with it, even if the exposure time isn't nigh on perfect. We'll see though...


@Dans79, Thanks for the tip on filter brand. I already went with a Hoya for the ND32, but more because I already have a ND8 filter by them and have been very pleased with the quality. For the ND1000, I just went with a very cheap one off Amazon...

[Cold Fussion]

Maybe in future something like this is what you'll need. It's and Rx100 with a 24mm lens in a gopro sized package, but i'm pretty sure you get access to all the normal camera controls. The price isn't that much more than a new gopro.

[Phil]

Thanks ColdFussion! Will get my ND filters and adapter today. Will see what results I'll get and report back.