Hi mate, I'll do my best to explain from what I know:
Fluido wrote: ↑22 Aug 2022, 08:12
1. What is main purpose of air dam in car industry, reduce drag or reduce lift(increase downforce)?
They were originally added as "anti-lift" devices back in like 1960 or something because as top speeds of cars increased in the past, the drag reduction activities of the designers led to overall car shapes which would could actually generate lift. It mainly affected closed-wheel racing (as opposed to open-wheel racing) because their shape more naturally is one of lift inducing.
Simon McBeath has a bit of a summary on them in his book "Competition Car Aerodynamics", but long story short, increasing airdam depth roughly increases downforce and decreases drag (to a point, obviously -- and the downforce gain is biased towards the front of the car; i.e. shifts aero-centre forward).
So simply, adding an airdam will reduce lift (and if you design it well, add downforce) and reduce drag.
The Hancha Group did some work on a Stock 1990-1997 Miata showing airdams vs. splitters here
Fluido wrote: ↑22 Aug 2022, 08:12
2. How dam reduce drag if : a)increase frontal area, b)increase stagnation pressure at the front of car, c)cause high
turbulent air behind dam, d) decrease air speed under the car(if gap is zero)?
The effect on the air is that less air passes below the car, and more air is moved around the sides of the car vs. having no airdam. There's going to be an area of recirculation directly behind the airdam itself, of course, and the stagnation point on the front of the car is going to be slightly lower down than without the airdam. Both of these things means that more air is also going to go over the top of the bonnet than without the dam too.
You will usually see a much lower static pressure below the front half of the car with an airdam that will "suck" the car onto the road more, and then as the air moves to the rear half of the car, it can actually reverse force direction and "lift" the rear; giving rise to an overall downforce increase, but a further forward effect on aero-centre.
Regarding drag, the additional surface area at the front of the car will create more drag, for sure. But the increased region of stagnation will decrease drag over the forward portion of the bonnet, and due to this plus whats happening under the car with downforce, the "messiness" created by the underfloor and wheels etc is "neater", which also can reduce drag. It's a balancing act, but in general, you should see a slight reduction in overall drag when you sum up all the deltas.
Fluido wrote: ↑22 Aug 2022, 08:12
3. Air dam or flat undertray, does air dam has sense when car has flat smooth undertray?
Because the airdam is kind of "neatening up the flow" under the car and also just reducing the amount of air that flows under a car -- which has all those messy pipes and brackets and components etc -- it stands to reason that you would expect drag to reduce just cause there's less "air" to impinge and react on ugly surfaces. If, however, you already have a smooth bottomed car, then you've reduced the amount of aerodynamic interaction already, and so you might find you don't get as much of a drag delta by adding an air dam -- and you might even just add drag outright given the effect of the forward stagnation pressure on the dam itself.
Fluido wrote: ↑22 Aug 2022, 08:12
4. Is better to put dam all the way to the road or must have some gap to work?
It has to have some amount of gap to function correctly else you start to get into flow choking and just parachuting yourself into the air.
Fluido wrote: ↑22 Aug 2022, 08:12
5. Make sense to install front dam and side skirts with zero gap(zero lekage) and leave back open to achieve maximum suction under the car?
See above answer, but reducing the amount of air which can bleed into your underfloor is always a good thing to do -- either by side skirts or using outwaching vortices.
One last thing to keep in mind is your car's cooling. By creating a region of lower static pressure behind the airdam (and below the engine) you actually can potentially increase your airflow "through" your engine. Lots of cars we drive every day seem to have a big hole at teh front to allow air "in" to the engine bay, but don't really do much to help get that hot air that's gone through the radiator "out"... If you can promote more airflow through the engine, then your rads can work better, and your engine can run cooler... which means that you can trade that off and run a smaller air intake (which is also a source of drag btw!) and save some weight too. However, this would require you to test / simulate this to make sure you still have enough overall cooling!! You also shouldn't forget about brake cooling too, but yeah... it's all interlinked
Hope this helps