jz11 wrote: ↑06 Dec 2017, 15:13
one thing I note in those pictures is the orientation of the strands (top layer at least), you basically get half the strength of the fabric just because of that
I know, my first idea was that, cutting the arms with the fabric 45/45, but then I noticed when distributing the arms into the box wich is the carbon plate with 45/45 orientation I can only fit 10 arms per plate, while with 0/90 orientation they´re 14 so the price difference is noticeable. That obviously is the reason all comercial frames are cut with 0/90 orientation. I´m at that point now, that´s the reason I´m searching some site with quality carbon plates, because that depends on the fiber layout
jz11 wrote: ↑06 Dec 2017, 15:13
regarding the chinese composites, without analysis you cannot tell if they use dyed glass fiber in the middle or maybe CF with some cheap polyester resin, and even if they use epoxy, there is no telling if it was cured properly, each of these things may affect the strength of the product A LOT, and if they compound one shortcut on to another, then you get complete garbage as a result
I know first hand, some didn´t have any stifness at all, bent like plastic arms, some delaminated at first impact, but they´re consistent on something, cracking easily
jz11 wrote: ↑06 Dec 2017, 15:13
there is no magic fix for this, going much thicker may give you a bit more life for that particular part (at the cost of added weight of course)
I hope not, or not too noticeably. My idea is using same arm section to my last frame (the picture I posted) wich once I cut on proper carbon it was ok and they´re still surviving, but since the carbon will be thicker, the arm will be thinner. Same section, but with better distribution of the material to take the impacts on the vertical axis better, as that´s what always kill the arms. It should also improve a bit aerdynamics, not only reducing drag but also cutting down the thrust lost due to the prop airflow hitting a wide carbon plate 10mm down the prop
jz11 wrote: ↑06 Dec 2017, 15:13
but on the other hand - that shock energy doesn't go away when you crash it, if the bottom X survives, something else may not, cameras/electronics may develop problems, simply because that thick carbon part transmitted instead of absorbing it
You missed the tpu printed dampers part
the end of the arms and the top of the vertical plates will be more or less covered with TPU parts not fully solid wich will fit perfectly and will use the frame screws to secure in. The idea is to absorb part of the energy, prevent the carbon from receiving a sharp impact, and somehow limit the Gs at the crashes and limit the damage to the electronics. I know I know, I´m too optimistic
jz11 wrote: ↑06 Dec 2017, 15:13
what could be an option is to make the part from kevlar/cf mix fabric, if you can't make it yourself, ask someone who can, this mixed fabric will flex a bit more and may survive longer, but keep in mind the orientation of the strands in the parts when you cut them out from the sheet, the strands are orientated in 45/45 lengthwise of the X "arm", you could (and probably should) orientate each layer in 45 degrees to the previous, so when you look at the stack form above, you have not just X strand orientation, but like a 8 point star - this produces a little more waste, but will improve durability
Carbon/kevlar would be awesome, and actually prices are similar, but it´s more difficult to cut, and I know the workshop I send the plates to be cut can cut 6mm carbon, but carbon/kevlar.... not sure, it´s risky
About the 8 point star distribution, I guess that´s what they say is quasi isotropic carbon fiber, full twill waves and alternating 0/90 and 45/45 pattern
I guess that´s what I´m looking for, but prices are a bit scary and can only find USA sites wich also add some custom charges
Also, quasi isotropic plates mean I can cut 14 arms per plate, while using cheaper carbon with UD core I should always place the arms with 45 degrees and can only cut 10 per plate, so probably there´s only one way to go
So the quesion is where to buy quasi isotropic 5 or 6mm plates in Europe
jz11 wrote: ↑06 Dec 2017, 15:13
basically - if you buy ready made sheets whichever fabrics are used, you cannot control the strand orientation, which is very important
p.s. not all epoxies are made equal, use quality stuff and if you use room temperature cure epoxies, do the post cure, if the epoxy doesn't come with the post cure data, pick another epoxy
p.s.s. plain weave and twill makes basically no difference in this context, picking one over the other may become important when you try to lay a complex shape, but for flat parts, it is basically the same thing
That´s too much for me, with the design and infinite crash test procedure I have more than enough
I want to upvote your post!