3rd spring

[RH1300S]

When you have the right and left spring for
bump and roll and the third for pitch
so why do you need also a torsion bar for roll?

The two outher springs should do the same job -controlling roll in corners?

Fine tuning - especially while on the move with driver adjustable ARB?

Also, the "normal" springs are not entirely removed from the pitch/heave control of the car; so you still need a way to adjust the roll stiffness at each end with compromising the control of pitch & heave.

[mep]

How stiff are the torsion bar, the two outher springs and the third spring
in comparison?

Third spring the stiffest because pitch is related to big aero forces?
Torsin bar the softest because the forces in roll are not so big?
And what about the two outher springs?

Do they even have an influence on roll when they are precompressed?
The one gets compressed the same way like the other gets decompressed in roll.
If the springs behave linear the forces should negate each other.
How stiff are they.

[mep]

Earlier I asked why you need the torsion bar when you have the two outher springs for roll.
Now as I am working on the front suspension of my scale car I
got on the think that the two outer springs seems to not
have any effect on roll monent.
If one spring gets compressed the other gets the same way decombressed so the forces negate each other.

So after roll without torsion bar against roll does the springs not
pull back. They hold their position.
So whats the sence behind them

A monoshoc suspension with a torsion bar against roll would be enough.

[Alonso]

Hey guys the third spring on a single seater is also a anti droop helper. I other words it limits the amount of droop being applied to the car under load causing it to perform better under power on applications. The third spring on a single seater runs of the rear roll bar causing a stiffer action under braking and power on. I have done the testing with it on a Zetec van diemen formula fors 04 and it is really a help if you get it right. It can also be a headache of note.
Sweet hope that helps.

[Conceptual]

After reading "Competition Car Suspension" by Allen Sanforth(sp?), I tried a few things on the 2006 F1 mod on rFactor, and here are the results.

By upping the springs to max, softening the dampers to min, putting the rear roll bar 2 clicks above detached, and detaching the front one all together, as well as BOTH 3rd springs, the car immediately decreased its laptime over a setup that has had about 5 hours of tweaking done to it.

Now, after fiddling with it a bit to dial out what little bit of oversteer was present, I added the third springs (max spring,min damper) and noticed ZERO change... Why?

Because the game does not account for the cone washer springs that are necessary in the monoshock to decouple the roll from the dampening!

So, although a game shows the third spring as a settable item, unless it has the setting to manipulate the cone washer springs, you should see zero improvement in chassis roll.

[RacingManiac]

third spring should be decoupled from roll altogether, on most monoshock car the "coil-over" unit only acts in ride/heave mode, with usually a shuttle bar(with 2 roll spring acting in series(kinda) or a torsion bar in roll. In cars that runs an addition third spring it should only act in ride/heave if its packaged using an T-type roll bar to actuate it. It might do something in roll if it is arranged in how most F1 cars packaged them in the rear, if its preloaded in full droop.....at anyrate I'd imagine thrid spring shouldn't be used to tune roll mode....

[Henning]

There is a good picture of the 3rd damper in the "2009 Diffuser Rule Interpretation" thread :

viewtopic.php?p=94904#p94904

[fastback33]

Put simply, it allows you to run softer springs on the corners of the car, while the third spring gives you the stiffness you want without the loss in grip by going to a higher frequency on each corner.